Istanbul Arrival – Bedazzled Rides, Turkish Delight, and Rooftop Views
Our first taste of Istanbul started with some serious sparkle. The hotel sent a van to pick us up, and this wasn’t just any van — this was a rolling planetarium. The ceiling twinkled with dozens of tiny lights, making our ride into the city feel more like a VIP experience than a simple airport transfer. The only thing that dulled the magic was the traffic. Getting across to the old city was somehow even worse than the 405 south on a Friday evening from West LA.
Eventually, we made it to Hotel Sultania, which put even the van’s bedazzled ceiling to shame. Our room was a blend of romance and drama — red lights glowed around the mirrors (on the wall and above the bed), and a portrait of a mysterious woman named Sultania watched over the room. The hotel even had a description of her, describing her as graceful, enchanting, and impossible to resist — a muse who “dances elegantly, her perfumes, her brightness, the glitters in her hair burning in my heart like uncontrollable desire.” It felt like staying in a love letter to old Istanbul.
After a quick check-in, we decided the best way to kick off Istanbul was with a visit to the legendary Hafiz Mustafa 1864.
Walking into Hafiz Mustafa for the first time was honestly a bit intimidating — the display cases are overflowing with sweets, and we had no idea where to start. After taking a minute to observe some locals and other tourists, we jumped in and ordered a mix of Turkish delight and a piece of baklava. Sweet, sticky, and completely worth the sugar rush.
From there, we wandered toward the Spice Bazaar, pausing outside the beautiful mosque next door to admire its architecture. Inside the bazaar, we were completely transported — shelves of spices, teas, sweets, and dried fruits everywhere. Bodrum shopping felt tame by comparison. Today’s goal was just to look around, take it all in, and get a feel for the place so we’d be ready to shop (and haggle) at the larger Grand Bazaar with confidence tomorrow.
Back at the hotel, we freshened up for dinner and headed to Luco Restaurant, a rooftop spot I’d booked ahead of time. The evening couldn’t have been more perfect. We started with fresh bread and a spicy tomato dip, then ordered the famous testi kebab, which came with a little tableside show — they heated and cracked open the ceramic pot right in front of us.
The food was fantastic, but the views stole the show. From our table we could see the water, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace, all glowing against the night sky. It was the perfect introduction to Istanbul and got us even more excited for tomorrow’s sightseeing adventure.
Our First Full Day in Istanbul – My Birthday in the Old City
We kicked off my birthday with the Basilica Cistern, and wow — what a way to start the day. Thanks to our private guide, we were literally the first ones inside, and for a few magical minutes, it was just us and the soft sound of water dripping through the vast, echoing underground chamber. The place is otherworldly — 336 marble columns rising from shallow water, their reflections glowing in the low light.
Of course, we made a beeline for the Medusa heads tucked away in the back corner — one sideways, the other upside down. Our guide explained one theory that their arrangement might have been intentional, either to diminish Medusa’s mythical power (no one wants to be turned to stone while inspecting the plumbing) or to symbolically suppress pagan imagery as Christianity took hold in the region. Either way, standing there with no crowds made the whole thing feel eerie and surreal — the perfect start to our day.
From there, we stepped out into the sunshine and walked to the Hagia Sophia, which absolutely lived up to the hype. That massive dome seems to defy gravity, and you can feel the layers of history all around you — Byzantine cathedral, Ottoman mosque, now mosque again.
Just across the way, we stopped at the Blue Mosque with its six minarets and stunning blue Iznik tiles. I was glad we’d researched ahead of time what to wear — my husband in lightweight pants and a short-sleeved shirt, me in a cotton dress and a scarf big enough to cover my head and shoulders. Our guide was great about letting me know exactly when to cover up so I felt respectful but not overheated.
We continued through the Hippodrome, once the heart of Byzantine life, where we saw the Egyptian Obelisk, the Serpent Column, and the German Fountain. It was wild to think this is where chariots once raced and crowds gathered for events.
Then came Topkapi Palace, where we got more than just a history lesson — we got some live entertainment. The palace itself is beautiful — lush courtyards, ornate rooms, incredible Bosphorus views — but the real drama happened when another tour group blocked our path. Our normally calm, collected guide suddenly turned into a full-on Istanbul traffic cop. He and the other guide started arguing, voices getting louder, arms flailing. For a second, I honestly thought they were going to come to blows right there between the palace gates. It was so intense that I half expected palace guards to step in. Luckily, it ended with a lot of muttering and some aggressive glaring — and we continued on.
By then we were hungry, so our guide asked if we wanted Michelin-starred dining, any specific cuisine, or a traditional Turkish restaurant locals frequent. We went with “local” (of course) and ended up at Değirmencioğlu, which turned out to be a feast. We started with warm bread and a spicy tomato dip, then dove into a mixed meat platter with lamb, beef, chicken, and wings, plus Turkish pizza, rice, and veggies. It was easily enough for four people, and there were only three of us. We finished with hot Turkish tea, feeling very satisfied (and slightly overstuffed).
The afternoon was for shopping, starting with a pottery shop full of gorgeous handmade pieces. My husband was this close to buying a 2500 EUR vase they offered to ship to us, but I had to step in — gently but firmly — and remind him that we do not, in fact, live in a museum. This has become my unofficial job on this trip: keeping him out of trouble. (I’ve been on duty since Bodrum, where he almost walked out with a Rolex he didn’t need!) The shopkeeper, clearly sensing my victory, slipped my husband a business card and whispered that they were open all night if he changed his mind.
We popped into a jewelry shop next and learned all about different stones and designs. It was fascinating, but since I wasn’t in the market for jewelry, I admired, complimented, and made a graceful exit before temptation struck.
Finally, we wandered into the Grand Bazaar, which is exactly as chaotic and colorful as everyone says. You can find anything there — carpets, lamps, gold, tea sets — but I went in with a plan: Turkish delight to bring home, the pomegranate tea I’d fallen in love with, and a new scarf. I haggled, I conquered, and I walked away feeling like I’d gotten exactly what I came for at a fair price.
When we got back to Hotel Sultania, the staff had outdone themselves. Our room was decorated for my birthday, and there was a slice of cake with vanilla pudding, chocolate, and strawberries waiting for me. It was the perfect sweet ending to a day that was equal parts history, adventure, drama, shopping — and just a little bit of “husband-spend-averting” on my part.
Our Last Day in Istanbul – Free Exploration & A Perfect Farewell
Our final day in Istanbul was set aside for wandering — no guide, no schedule, just us exploring. We started in Taksim Square, the modern heart of the city and a gathering place for everything from protests to New Year’s celebrations. The square is anchored by the Republic Monument, commemorating the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923, and more recently, the new Taksim Mosque, whose large dome now dominates the skyline and gives the square a striking focal point.
From Taksim, we strolled down Istiklal Street, one of Istanbul’s liveliest avenues. It’s a pedestrian-only stretch lined with shops, cafes, bookstores, consulates, and bakeries, with the occasional historic red tram rattling down the middle. Street musicians filled the air with music, vendors sold roasted chestnuts and simit (Turkish bagels), and there was this wonderful buzz that made us slow down and just enjoy people-watching.
The street food was next-level. There were mussels stuffed with rice (tempting), but then there were also… goat heads on display? At least that’s what it looked like. I’m adventurous, but I’m not about to eat something that still has teeth and looks like it could star in a Stephen King novel.
Instead, we made our way down to the Galata Tower, a medieval stone tower that has been watching over Istanbul since the 14th century. Originally built by the Genoese, it has served many purposes over the centuries — from a watchtower to a prison — but today it’s best known for offering one of the best panoramic views in the city. We climbed to the top and were rewarded with a full 360-degree view: the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, minarets scattered across the skyline. It was one of those moments where you can actually see how the city is stitched together, with Europe and Asia meeting across the water.
From there, we followed our concierge’s advice and found Marmara Balık Dürüm, a small spot known for its famous fish wraps. The first bite had us nervous — it was very fishy — but the second bite was better, and by the third bite, the spices and herbs had us completely won over. Each bite got messier and tastier, exactly what you want from good street food.
The hotel had kindly arranged a car to Taksim for us that morning (probably wise — my husband looked less than thrilled about figuring out the bus system). Coming back, we walked, meandering through narrow streets, ducking into shops, and soaking up the everyday rhythm of the city.
That evening we attended a Whirling Dervish Ceremony, which I had really been looking forward to. The ritual comes from the Mevlevi Order of Sufism, a mystical branch of Islam that seeks closeness to God through music, poetry, and meditative movement. The whirling itself is a form of prayer: the right hand is raised to the sky to receive blessings, the left hand turned downward to pass them to the earth, and the constant spinning represents a kind of letting go — transcending the self and connecting to the divine.
Our seats were right in the front row, which was incredible, but the ceremony was held in a very small, dark, brick-walled room — and that’s what got to my husband. At one point, he leaned over and whispered that he didn’t think he could stay, clearly overwhelmed by the space like he had been in the Underground City. He managed to make it through to the end this time, fortunately. For me watching the dervishes spin in total focus was mesmerizing and felt like the perfect cultural sendoff.
For our last dinner in Istanbul, we finally kept our promise to the owner of the restaurant across from our hotel — New Hatay Restaurant Kebab & Fish House — who had been waving to us all week. We sat down for one final feast: I ordered the Adana kebab one more time (and of course, that addictive spicy tomato dip and fresh bread), while my husband tried a new dish but kept stealing bites of mine. It was exactly the cozy, low-key ending we wanted.
As we walked back to our hotel, full and happy, I felt like we’d experienced the city from every angle — its history, its flavors, its music, its chaos, and even its quiet moments. It was the perfect farewell to Istanbul.
Click, Wander & Savor 