Cappadocia

Caves, Fairy Chimneys & Kebabs, Oh My!!

After a travel day that felt about three weeks long, we finally arrived in Göreme and checked into the Zara Cave Hotel, where we got to stay in an actual fairy chimney room — and yes, it’s just as magical as it sounds. Cappadocia already felt otherworldly, and we hadn’t even left the hotel yet.

That night, we headed to Top Deck Cave Restaurant for dinner — a cozy, family-run spot literally inside a cave. The atmosphere was warm and intimate, and the food was amazing — traditional Turkish dishes starting with a small meze platter that tasted like they’d been made with love and a pinch of spices.

Knowing I had a 4 AM pickup for my hot air balloon ride, I went to bed early, excited for the next morning’s adventure. But before my alarm could do its job, I was gently woken by the call to prayer echoing across the valley. This was our first time in a Muslim country, so it took me a moment to register what I was hearing — but once I did, it felt special and grounding.

Day 1 – Up, Up, & Away

The following morning it was time for the main event: my first-ever hot air balloon ride with #VoyagerBalloons. My husband, who is decidedly not a fan of heights, stayed in bed while I climbed into a van in the dark alone — YOLO, right? Watching the sun rise over Cappadocia’s fairy chimneys from a balloon basket was pure magic. Photos can’t do it justice — it felt like floating through a dreamscape.

When I returned, happy and running on adrenaline, my husband confessed he hadn’t left the room since I’d left and was convinced I’d been kidnapped because I got back later than expected. (He was relieved… but I think he also wanted proof that I’d really gone ballooning and not just on a very long coffee run.)

After breakfast, we set out on a full-day private tour with an incredible guide who made sure we saw it all — and understood what we were looking at. Our stops included:

• Göreme Open Air Museum – cave churches painted with centuries-old frescoes.

• Mushroom Valley – full of those famous “fairy chimneys.”

• Devrent (Imagination) Valley – where you can spot camels, seals, and whatever else your imagination creates.

• Love Valley

• Ortahisar Castle – a natural rock fortress with sweeping views.

• Uçhisar Castle – the highest point in Cappadocia, perfect for panoramic photos.

Lunch was at Zerdali Cafe & Restaurant where our tour guide introduced us to Turkish style spicy tomato dip (Acili Ezme) and I fell in love. We also ordered traditional kebabs that came out in a sealed clay pot cracked open at our table. This completely recharged us, and we ended the day at a pottery workshop where I got to try my hand at the wheel (with lots of help from a patient expert).

I also practiced my haggling skills to purchase a beautiful handmade wine carafe. These unique carafes with hollow middles are a nod to ancient Anatolian history. The design originated with the Hittites who were sun worshippers and believed when sun passed through the hollow middles of the carafe it would bless the wine inside.

By the time we made it back to the hotel, we were dusty, exhausted, and so, so happy. Day one was everything we hoped for — and tomorrow promised even more adventure.

Cappadocia Day 2 – Tunnel Vision (& a Quick Escape)

If Day 1 was about soaring over Cappadocia, Day 2 was about going under it — literally. We started with a tour of one of the region’s famous Underground Cities, which once sheltered thousands of people during invasions. Walking through the narrow tunnels and ancient chambers was fascinating… until we reached the longest, tightest passage. At that point, my husband (who had already been pushing his limits underground) decided he’d rather see the sun again and made a beeline for the exit. He said he felt like he was going to pass out — which honestly seemed like a safer option than getting stuck halfway down the tunnel! I braved the rest of the tour and met him topside, where he looked very happy to have open sky above his head again.

Next, we headed out for a hike in the Ihlara Valley, a lush gorge lined with rock-cut churches. The shade and the sound of the river made it such a peaceful stop. From there, we visited Selime Monastery, carved into a massive rock face — complete with a cathedral-sized church and monk quarters that made us feel like we were exploring a natural skyscraper.

We also stopped at Pigeon Valley, where thousands of dovecotes have been carved into the soft rock over centuries, giving the cliffs a honeycomb look.

And of course, no Cappadocia day is complete without an amazing lunch. I loved the Andana Kebab (still dreaming about them!) and the setting — a cozy raised hut at Star Restaurant in Aksaray where we sat cross-legged on colorful cushions at a low table (see photo!). It was the perfect way to relax after a morning of climbing, hiking, and navigating tunnels.

By the end of the day, we were dusty, tired, and very full — but still not ready for this adventure to end. Cappadocia is the kind of place that just keeps surprising you, whether you’re floating above it, crawling through it, or eating kebabs right in the middle of it.