Costa Brava Day Trip: Coastal Hikes, Medieval Villages & A Perfect Seaside Lunch
If Barcelona is vibrant and bustling, Costa Brava is its quieter, romantic counterpart — all medieval stone towns, cliffside trails, and sun-dappled fishing villages. My husband and I booked a private driver for a full-day tour, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
Our driver not only navigated the winding roads but also gave us a crash course on Catalonia’s culture and challenges — from the region’s complicated relationship with the rest of Spain to the fact that children grow up learning both Catalan and Castilian Spanish in school. It made every stop along the way feel richer and more connected to the present, not just the past.
Calella de Palafrugell – Classic Costa Brava
We began our day in Calella de Palafrugell, a postcard-perfect town of low, whitewashed houses and boats pulled up on the sand. The seafront promenade is lined with cafés and offers the kind of peaceful, slow start you want for a day like this. We wandered along the waterfront, watching the waves roll in and imagining what life must have been like when this was a quiet fishing village centuries ago.
While walking along the waterfront in Calella de Palafrugell, we noticed the beach dotted with small dinghies marked with country names — including several from France — and realized there was a sailing event happening. It turns out we were there during the 2024 EurILCA Master Series ESP, a major regatta for ILCA (Laser) dinghies hosted by Club Vela Calella.
This event brought together 130 Master sailors from 19 countries, and the strong winds that day made for perfect racing conditions. It was exciting to watch the brightly colored sails tack and jibe across the bay, adding even more energy to the already lively scene.
Coastal Walk to a Hidden Fishing Village
From Calella, we set off on a short coastal hike. The path hugged rocky shore, winding past pine trees and sparkling coves, opening up to breathtaking views of the sea.
Cala s’Alguer – A Fishing Village Frozen in Time
Our walk led us to Cala s’Alguer, one of the most charming and historically significant spots on the Costa Brava. This tiny cove has been a fishing village since at least the 16th century, and its row of simple whitewashed stone huts — many with colorful wooden doors — remains perfectly preserved.
Each hut has a ramp leading to the sea where fishermen could haul their boats and store their gear, a tradition that continues even today. The village sits beneath a grove of pine trees, with rocky coastline and crystal-clear waters completing the scene.
Cala s’Alguer was declared a Cultural Asset of National Interest in 1972, protecting it from development and preserving it as a rare window into the Costa Brava’s past. Standing there, with no hotels or beach bars in sight, it was easy to imagine life here centuries ago.
Lunch at Toc Al Mar – Waves, Wind & Freshly Grilled Sea Bass
Our driver brought us down a winding road to a tiny cove where Toc Al Mar, a rustic beachside restaurant, sits almost on the sand in the town of Begur. The wind was strong that day, whipping up dramatic waves and sending sea spray into the air — the kind of setting that makes you feel alive and connected to the place you’re in.
While we waited for our table, we watched young kids flying a kite on the beach, their parents sitting a safe distance away smiling and watching.
Then came the best part: the restaurant staff brought out a tray of the day’s catch, whole fish glistening with seawater, so we could choose exactly what we wanted. I chose sea bass, and a little while later it came back to the table perfectly grilled — filleted but still whole enough that you could see the care they’d taken in preparing it. It was drizzled with olive oil and served with grilled vegetables, the skin lightly charred and the flesh tender and flaky.
Grilled sea bass at Toc Al Mar — fresh, simple, and perfect.
It was one of the freshest meals of our trip, and the setting — waves crashing just a few meters away — made it unforgettable.
Sa Tuna – Begur’s Coastal Gem
After lunch, we visited Sa Tuna, a small but stunning cove just outside the center of Begur. The beach here is a mix of sand and pebbles, framed by rocky cliffs and pine trees, with brightly painted fishermen’s houses lining the shore.
Sa Tuna has managed to keep its character despite growing popularity — it feels quiet and intimate, with boats still stored by the water and a few restaurants offering sea views. There’s also a coastal path leading to the nearby cove of s’Eixugador, one of the most secluded spots in Begur.
Being here gave us a sense of the region’s fishing heritage and how life was once fully tied to the sea — something that Begur as a whole celebrates in its history.
Pals – A Hilltop Village with a View
Our next stop was Pals, slightly more lively but just as beautiful. The village is perched on a hilltop, offering wide views of the surrounding countryside. Its Gothic Quarter, with narrow alleys and balconies dripping with flowers, feels like a painter’s dream.
We climbed to a viewpoint near the old Romanesque tower and paused for a moment to take it all in — terracotta rooftops below, green fields stretching to the horizon.
Peratallada – Time Travel in Stone
Our final stop was Peratallada, a perfectly preserved medieval village whose name means “carved stone.” The entire place feels frozen in time — cobblestone streets winding between golden stone houses, little archways framing quiet courtyards, ivy spilling over walls.
We had time to just wander — no agenda, no rush — soaking up the feeling of stepping back hundreds of years. Peratallada is a Historic-Artistic Site, and it’s easy to see why it’s so fiercely protected.
Reflections
What made this day so special wasn’t just the scenery — it was the slower pace, the chance to get out of the city and feel the history and rhythms of this part of Catalonia. Our guide’s stories about language, politics, and daily life brought depth to the day, and that meal at Toc Al Mar will stay with us forever.
Costa Brava isn’t just a destination — it’s a feeling. And for one perfect day, we got to live inside it.
Click, Wander & Savor 