Porto

🇵🇹 Porto, Portugal — The City That Stole My Heart

We landed in Madrid, bleary-eyed from the long flight, and nearly got lost in the maze of duty-free shops. Every sign to the connecting gates seemed to lure us deeper into perfume aisles. After a few laughs and wrong turns, we finally escaped and made our flight to Porto, Portugal — the place that would instantly steal my heart.

At the Sixt counter, we picked up our rental car — the one that would carry us down Portugal’s coast and across the border into Spain — but first, we gave ourselves time to savor Porto.

Have you ever been somewhere and thought, “I could live here?” That’s exactly how I felt.

🏨 Where We Stayed: Pestana Vintage Porto Hotel

We stayed at the Pestana Vintage Porto Hotel, perfectly situated along the Ribeira waterfront, part of Porto’s UNESCO World Heritage district. While our room didn’t overlook the Douro, we were right in the heart of the action — steps from the river, the bridge, and the colorful houses that define Porto’s postcard views.

The hotel is steeped in history. It’s not a single structure but a collection of 16th-, 17th-, and 18th-century townhouses beautifully joined together to form one unified property. Many of the original façades remain, their stonework and timber beams blending seamlessly with modern interiors. Staying here feels like inhabiting the city’s living history — cobblestone foundations, narrow corridors, and centuries-old walls that seem to whisper their own stories.

Inside, the design blends vintage character with modern comfort: black-and-white photographs of old Porto line the hallways, while soft lighting and contemporary furnishings bring warmth to the space. Breakfast is served in a bright room overlooking the Ribeira square, where the smell of espresso mingles with the sound of church bells from the Sé Cathedral.

And then, there was our little midnight adventure.

🌙 The Door That Opened Itself

Sometime in the middle of the night, my husband jolted awake. He swears he heard the click of our hotel room door opening — once, maybe twice — followed by the faint sound of hinges creaking. He sat up, heart pounding, ready to confront whoever might be walking in.

I didn’t move. I didn’t even stir.

In fact, I slept peacefully through the entire thing.

The next morning, he looked at me wide-eyed, ready to tell the tale of the “mystery intruder.” We checked our bags, wallets, and passports — everything was exactly as we’d left it.

Was it a loose latch? A draft through the old building’s hallway? Or maybe just the quirks of a centuries-old hotel settling into the night? We’ll never know — but we lived to tell the tale and laugh about it later over breakfast and strong Portuguese coffee.

It became part of our Porto story — a funny, slightly eerie twist that somehow fit the city’s personality: historical, mysterious, and full of character.

🍷 Dinner by the Douro — Our First Night in Porto

That first night, our hotel recommended Vinhas d’Alho, a cozy riverside restaurant just a few doors away, and even made a reservation for us. There’s no shortage of restaurants along the Ribeira promenade, but many cater to tourists, promising views but not always authenticity. I wanted something local — somewhere the food still told a story. Vinhas d’Alho delivered.

We sat outside with the Douro River shimmering before us, and Vila Nova de Gaia glowing across the water — its hillside dotted with the illuminated signs of Port wine cellars. The air was cool, the lights reflected like ribbons across the river, and the whole scene felt cinematic.

I ordered octopus, perfectly grilled and swimming in olive oil, crisped just enough at the edges yet tender inside. It was my first taste of octopus in Portugal — and definitely not my last. Every bite was rustic, rich, and satisfying — the kind of food that makes you pause mid-meal and whisper, “Oh my God, this is amazing.”

When our glasses arrived — mine filled with crisp local white wine, his with water — we clinked them together and smiled, the reflection of Gaia’s lights dancing on the surface. It was the perfect beginning to our time in Porto: unhurried, genuine, and quietly magical.

Scenes of Porto

By day, we wandered through the Ribeira district, where the narrow lanes spill down toward the river. Laundry fluttered from balconies above pastel façades, and the air smelled faintly of grilled sardines and sea salt.

We paused at Igreja de Santo Ildefonso, its blue-and-white tiled façade gleaming in the morning light, and admired a bronze handshake door knocker on a quiet street — a simple, elegant symbol of welcome.

And yes, even the McDonald’s Imperial Café stopped us in our tracks. With crystal chandeliers, stained glass, and carved ceilings, it’s often called the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world. Only in Porto could fast food look like fine art.

The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine

In a city that treasures tradition, one of the most whimsical experiences is The Fantastic World of the Portuguese Sardine — part carnival, part museum, part fever dream.

Rows of brightly colored tins line the walls, each labeled with a different year — not an expiration date, but a moment in Portugal’s history. The shop glows in gold and red, with circus lights and vintage music.

We couldn’t resist joining the fun. I picked a tin from 1972, my birth year, and my husband posed like a king on the red velvet throne surrounded by sardine tins. It’s pure joy — kitschy, cultural, and unforgettable.

🏛️ Our Full-Day Private Tour of Porto

To truly get to know the city, we booked a full-day private tour of Porto — one of the best decisions of the trip. Our guide met us right at the hotel and spent the entire day showing us the layers of the city’s history, neighborhoods, and hidden corners that most visitors miss.

We started at the Sé Cathedral, standing proudly over the city, then explored the Bolhão Market, alive with color and chatter. We stopped for coffee and pastries at a small local café, and later drove out to Foz do Douro, where the river meets the Atlantic. Waves crashed against stone jetties, and the air smelled of salt and sea.

Our guide’s stories made Porto come alive — its working-class roots, its connection to the wine trade, and how the Douro shaped everything from its economy to its character. By the end of the day, we felt we’d seen not just the landmarks, but the soul of the city.

Livraria Lello — A Storybook Come to Life

No photo can capture the magic of Livraria Lello, one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. The carved wooden staircase twists like a red ribbon, and sunlight from the stained-glass ceiling bathes the room in a golden glow.

It’s easy to understand why J.K. Rowling, who lived in Porto in the early 1990s, drew inspiration here while writing Harry Potter. That evening, we saw Porto University students dressed in long black capes, the very image of Hogwarts attire, laughing together by the river. Porto’s magic truly blurs the line between fiction and reality.

Coffee, Custard & History

One of my favorite stops was a small café where our guide ordered us a bica (Portuguese espresso) and a pastel de nata — Portugal’s most beloved dessert.

The first bite — warm, flaky, and dusted with cinnamon — was perfection. But the story behind it makes it even sweeter. In the 18th century, monks at the Jerónimos Monastery used egg whites to starch their robes and clarify wine, leaving an excess of yolks. Refusing to waste them, they created doces conventuais — rich, egg-yolk-based desserts. The pastel de nata became the crown jewel, later perfected by local bakers after the monasteries closed.

It’s a dessert born of practicality, perfected by time, and loved by everyone who tries it.

Crossing the Dom Luís I Bridge

In the late afternoon, we walked across the Dom Luís I Bridge, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel. From the upper deck, trams glide past as locals lean on the railing to watch the sun set. Below, boats carry barrels of Port beneath the iron arches.

The view from the middle — Porto’s rooftops on one side, Gaia’s cellars on the other — is one of the most breathtaking in Europe.

🍇 Across the Bridge — A Hidden Port House in Gaia

Once on the Gaia side, we decided to skip the large, tourist-packed Port cellars and instead wandered down a quiet cobblestone alley. That’s where we found Augusto’s, a small family-run Port house with a warm welcome and a calm, unhurried feel.

The Augusto family had been part of the Port trade for decades, but only began producing wine under their own name in 2014. Their lodge offers small-group tastings and short tours through their barrels and cellars — intimate, personal, and refreshingly authentic.

Inside, the air was cool and rich with oak. After the tour, I sat for a Port flight, eager to learn the differences between white, ruby, and tawny. My husband sat nearby with water, smiling as I peppered the guide with questions.

One thing that fascinated me — why some “white” Ports look amber or reddish. The guide explained that white Port deepens in color with age: oxidation in wooden barrels gives it that warm hue and layers of caramel, honey, and nut flavors.

Each sip told a story, and sitting there in the quiet of the cellar, it felt like a little secret corner of Gaia that most visitors never find.

🍴 Dinner at À Bolina — Green Wine & Shared Plates

After the tasting, we strolled back along the river and stopped at À Bolina, a cozy, locals’ favorite perched just above the water. The staff encouraged us to share small plates, and I happily obliged — especially when the waiter suggested trying vinho verde, or “green wine.”

I quickly learned that “green” doesn’t mean the color. It refers to the youth of the wine — bottled and served young, slightly effervescent, crisp, and refreshing. Its light bubbles and citrus notes made it the perfect match for what we ordered: smoky sausage and drunken ham, slow-cooked in wine and bursting with flavor.

Each bite was hearty yet refined, the vinho verde cutting through the richness beautifully. We lingered, watching the lights of Porto shimmer across the river — content, full, and deeply grateful for a day that had been everything travel should be.

🥩 Dinner at Sagardi Porto — Local Tips and Perfect Steak

The next day, after a full-day trip through the Douro Valley (a story for another post), our tour guide dropped us back at the hotel and asked if we had dinner plans. When we said no, he smiled and said, “Go to Sagardi Porto — just across the street.”

I love a local recommendation, so before heading upstairs, we crossed over to make a reservation for later that night.

When we returned, the host led us downstairs to the main dining room, where the stone walls, low lighting, and gentle buzz of conversation made it instantly inviting. The atmosphere was cozy yet elegant, full but never loud — the perfect end to a long, beautiful day.

I ordered another vinho verde, and we shared a steak, perfectly grilled and full of flavor — cooked a little rare for my husband’s taste, but tender, juicy, and delicious. It was simple, rustic food done exceptionally well. The combination of great service, local wine, and that inviting downstairs ambiance made it one of our favorite meals in Porto.

Final Thoughts

From blue-tiled churches to custard tarts and grilled octopus, from mysterious midnight doors to Port tastings and perfect steak, Porto wrapped us in its charm. It’s a city that feels both ancient and alive, soulful yet playful — a place where history whispers through every cobblestone and every bite tells a story.

If Lisbon is Portugal’s heartbeat, Porto is its soul.