Lagos

Lagos, Algarve: Roundabouts, Rock Formations, and a Solo Coastal Adventure

From Lisbon, we hopped in our rental and drove across the April 25 Bridge, heading further south to Lagos where we were checking into the Belmar Spa and Beach Resort. The drive took us along open stretches of highway, past olive groves and rolling hills, until the landscape gave way to golden cliffs and turquoise water — the Algarve in all its glory.

Finding the town center, however, was an adventure of its own. Our GPS kept losing signal and seemed to have a particular fondness for roundabouts — “In 900 feet, take the second exit.” Except… which one? After looping ourselves dizzy, I finally gave up on technology and switched to old-school navigation — me, a map, and a lot of determination. Eventually, we broke free from the roundabout vortex and found our way to the old town.

We started at the Forte da Ponta da Bandeira, a small 17th-century fortress guarding the harbor entrance. Once used to defend Lagos from pirates, it now offers sea views that make you wonder how many ships once appeared on that horizon.

Just across the road sits the Church of St. Anthony (Igreja de Santo António) — a stunning baroque masterpiece with gilded wood carvings, intricate tilework, and a painted ceiling that glows in the sunlight.

From there, we wandered through Lagos’ cobblestoned streets, admiring colorful tiles and quirky art displays pasted along whitewashed walls. I couldn’t resist picking up a few souvenirs: a hand-painted rooster toothpick holder, a Portuguese-tile trivet, and a cork wallet — because when in Portugal, cork is practically couture.

After exploring every inch of the historic core, we headed back toward the hotel and had dinner at Campimar, a casual beachfront restaurant just steps from the sand. The view was incredible — waves rolling in under the sunset — though my husband swore our fish had drowned in olive oil instead of swimming in it. I felt fine, but by the time we got back to the room, he was down for the count.

The next morning, the weather — and our luck — turned. Both of our boat tours (the Benagil Caves and the Ponta da Piedade Grottoes) were canceled due to high winds and rough seas, and my husband was still unwell. Refusing to let the day slip away, I set off on my own. The hotel concierge handed me a map and pointed me toward the Ponta da Piedade Coastal Trail, saying it followed the cliffs all the way to the headlands.

And what a walk it was. The path hugs the coastline, offering panoramic views of golden limestone cliffs, hidden coves, and turquoise waters below. I hiked past Praia do Camilo, with its famous wooden staircase winding down to a tiny beach framed by cliffs, then continued to Praia Dona Ana, one of the Algarve’s most photographed stretches of sand. From there, the views only got better — natural rock arches, sea stacks shaped by centuries of wind and waves, and lookout points where you can spot the beaches of Porto de Mós in one direction and Alvor Bay in the other.

Even without the boats, it was an unforgettable day — warm sun, ocean breeze, and the freedom to stop for every perfect photo. Sometimes, plans fall apart so better ones can unfold.