🇮🇹 Rome: Thanksgiving Weekend in the Eternal City
Our last stop while visiting our daughter during her semester abroad in Florence was a weekend – Thanksgiving weekend – in Rome. I was so excited to see the Eternal City again. Years earlier, I’d spent six weeks studying abroad in Italy (with two more in London after), moving city to city with a group of U.S. teachers. We began in Rome, continued to Florence, spent three weeks at the University of Parma, and ended in Venice. That trip was my first time in Europe, and Rome had captured my heart from the start.
I still remember sitting on the ancient stone steps of the Colosseum, awestruck as I pictured the roar of the crowds and the brutal games that once unfolded below.
Arrival in Rome
Early one morning, we headed to the Florence train station for our trip south. Our oldest daughter joined us too – she’d passed through Rome a few times for cheap flights to other European destinations but had never actually explored it. My husband, a lifelong train enthusiast, was practically giddy, like a kid on Christmas Eve.
The ride was smooth and scenic, countryside blurring past in golden hues. As we neared Rome, our oldest called from a few seats behind, urging us to grab our luggage because the next stop was ours. We did as told, heaving our overpacked suitcases through the crowd just in time – only to see the girls still seated, laughing and shrugging as the train pulled away.
Thankfully, my oldest was now a seasoned traveler, and my youngest at fifteen was in good hands. My oldest texted that they’d get off at the next stop and grab a cab.
We checked into The Inn at the Spanish Steps – Luxury Collection, which offered a small kitchen, a bedroom, and a pullout couch – pure luxury compared to typical European hotel rooms. After sharing a single small hotel room in Florence for a week, a space with a bedroom door was good for all of us. My husband could go to sleep early, and my youngest could finally get a break from his snoring, my breathing, and the many things she was now complaining about.
It was literally steps from the Spanish Steps, perfectly situated for exploring the city on foot.
A Festive Start: Spanish Steps & Roasted Chestnuts
Facing the Spanish Steps that November evening, I felt a different energy than I had during my June visit years before. This time, the air was crisp, and to the right of the stairs stood a man roasting chestnuts over an open flame. The scent was like Christmas, and without even realizing it, I started softly singing to myself, “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire…”
We bought a paper cone to share – and quickly agreed they were, frankly, disgusting. But the moment itself was magical.
Our Walking Tour: Rome’s Heart on Foot
Armed with comfortable shoes and curiosity, we set off on our self-guided walking tour through Rome’s historic center.
1. Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna)
Built in the 18th century, the Spanish Steps were designed to connect the Trinità dei Monti Church above with the Piazza di Spagna below. The Baroque staircase became a social hub – artists, poets, and travelers have gathered here for centuries. From the top, you can look out over the rooftops of Rome, the city shimmering like a living museum.
2. Trevi Fountain
We strolled less than a kilometer to the Trevi Fountain, one of the most famous fountains in the world. Completed in 1762, it depicts Oceanus, the Titan god who ruled over all the earth’s waters, riding a chariot pulled by sea horses. Legend has it that tossing a coin into the fountain ensures your return to Rome. I remembered doing exactly that my last day in the city in 1993 – turning away and tossing the coin over my shoulder without looking back. It clearly worked once, so I told my daughters we’d save our coin toss for our final morning this trip.
3. Pantheon
From Trevi, we walked to the Pantheon, an architectural marvel that has stood for nearly 2,000 years. Originally built as a temple to all Roman gods, it later became a Christian church. Its perfect dome – the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world – still leaves visitors speechless. Sunlight streams through the oculus at its center, a direct link between heaven and earth.
4. Piazza Navona
Our walk ended at the lively Piazza Navona, built on the site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian. Its Baroque fountains and colorful street performers give it constant motion, especially around sunset when artists and musicians fill the square. The Fountain of the Four Rivers, designed by Bernini, represents the four great rivers known at the time: the Nile, Ganges, Danube, and Rio de la Plata.
It was crowded everywhere we went – a reminder that even in November, Rome never sleeps. And in Rome especially, it pays to be cautious of pickpockets. I carried my trusty black purse, the one my youngest insists is ugly, but it has zippers and latches that make it nearly impossible to open unnoticed. A fashion sacrifice for peace of mind.
Ancient Rome: The Colosseum & Roman Forum
The next morning, we met our private guide for a skip-the-line tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum – a far cry from my broke college-student days of waiting in endless queues.
Standing once again in the Colosseum, I felt the same awe I’d experienced decades earlier – this time deepened by our guide’s vivid storytelling. We toured the underground chambers, a first for me, where gladiators and wild animals waited before being hoisted into the arena through trapdoors. Above, sunlight filtered through the arches, illuminating history in layers of stone and sand.
At the Roman Forum, we walked among the ruins that were once the beating heart of ancient Rome – temples, markets, and government buildings. Our guide explained how Julius Caesar erected statues of himself to project power and how the Forum served as both political and social center. She even made a pointed joke about modern leaders doing the same – one of those awkward travel moments that makes you laugh and cringe all at once.
Thanksgiving Dinner in Rome
That evening, Thanksgiving night, we found a cozy restaurant within walking distance of our hotel and ordered yet another round of pasta and wine. It didn’t feel like Thanksgiving – no turkey or stuffing – but it didn’t matter. What mattered was that we were together, halfway across the world, creating new family memories in the most ancient of cities.
Vatican City
The following day brought our private tour of Vatican City, the world’s smallest sovereign state and one of its most extraordinary.
Walking into St. Peter’s Basilica, the scale alone takes your breath away. Every inch glows with golds, marbles, and mosaics that seem to move in the shifting light. Michelangelo’s Pietà rests quietly behind glass – the folds of Mary’s robe carved so delicately it looks like silk – while Bernini’s towering bronze canopy anchors the altar beneath the soaring dome.
Then came the Sistine Chapel, where time seems to stop. The colors are far brighter than I remembered from photos – deep lapis blues, glowing golds, and soft rose tones that make the ceiling feel almost alive. Standing beneath Michelangelo’s masterpiece, your neck aches but your heart soars. Every panel tells a story – creation, faith, struggle, and redemption – and you can feel the centuries of reverence in the quiet around you.
It was as humbling and beautiful as I remembered, even if the crowds made it hard to linger.
A Farewell to Rome
On our final morning, before heading to the airport, we took one last walk to the Trevi Fountain. The crowds were lighter, the air crisp. We each turned our backs, tossed our coins over our shoulders, and – as tradition demands – didn’t look back.
If the legend holds true, I know I’ll return again someday.
Though we ran out of time this trip, I remembered from my 1993 visit staying near a set of ruins that had become home to hundreds of cats – the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary. It’s worth a stop, especially if, like us, you’ve traveled through places such as Athens or Istanbul where cats are everyone’s cats. The ruins themselves are ancient Roman temples, now lovingly cared for by volunteers who feed, shelter, and protect the colony of rescued felines that call it home.
If I return, that’s one of the first places I’ll go.
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💡 Rome Travel Tips
• Watch for pickpockets: Especially around major sites like the Trevi Fountain and Colosseum. Use bags with zippers and crossbody straps.
• Beware of cash scams: Some taxi drivers or vendors may claim you underpaid (for example, keeping half your cash and showing you only part of it). Always count money visibly or use cards or Uber instead.
• Book skip-the-line or private tours: The Colosseum and Vatican can have hours-long waits. Guided tours add rich historical context and access to special areas.
• Wear comfortable shoes: Rome is best explored on foot – the cobblestones are beautiful but unforgiving.
• Savor the evenings: Piazzas come alive at night – grab a gelato and soak in the glow of history under Roman streetlights.
• Animal lovers, take note: Visit the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary to meet Rome’s most famous residents – hundreds of rescued cats who live among the ruins where Julius Caesar was said to be assassinated.
Click, Wander & Savor 