A Weekend to Remember in Athens: History, Myth & Mouthwatering Food
We arrived in Athens Friday night, staying at the Electra Palace, in the old historical neighborhood of Athens called Plaka. From the moment we stepped onto our balcony and saw the Acropolis glowing in the evening light, I knew this would be a special place.
Morning at Electra Palace & the View That Woke Us
We started the day with breakfast on Electra Palace’s rooftop terrace. The buffet was generous, full of fresh fruits, pastries, breads, olives, jams — a delightful array — and we sat sipping strong Greek coffee while gazing at the Parthenon above us. It felt like the gods themselves were watching us awake. (Athena surely would have approved.)
Our room balcony had one of the best views of the Acropolis in the city — each time I stepped outside I half expected to glimpse a white-robed figure wandering the Parthenon ridge.
Private Tour Kickoff (with Spanakopita Surprise)
We were picked up directly from the hotel by our driver-guide in a comfortable private vehicle. We coordinated via WhatsApp (yes, messaging by text came in handy as we moved through the city and needed to contact him for pick up). Some of the local restaurants also used WhatsApp to confirm reservations, which made things extra smooth.
Early along the drive, he pulled over to make a local bakery stop. He bought us spanakopita — warm spinach-and-herb pies wrapped in flaky phyllo dough — which he handed to us with a grin. It was simple but perfect: just a small taste of local flavor to start the day.
Exploring Athens’ Ancient Heart
We visited all the classic sites — each brought to life by our guide before dropping us off to explore on our own:
The Acropolis, Parthenon, Temple of Athena Nike & Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( Ancient Theater): Walking the stairway to the Acropolis, I felt time stretch. Ruined columns, faded friezes, sheer presence. The Parthenon, built in the 5th century BCE under Pericles, was constructed to honor Athena, the city’s patron goddess. Legend says Athena and Poseidon competed for Athens’ loyalty: Poseidon struck a rock and produced (in some versions) a salt spring or a horse, while Athena offered the olive tree. The Athenians chose Athena’s gift — peace, prosperity, wisdom — and the city was named for her. That myth hovered with me as I looked down at the city below.
Erechtheion & the Sacred Serpents: At the Acropolis’s northern face sits the Erechtheion, a temple built on uneven ground in honor of multiple deities, including Poseidon, Athena, and the mythical Erechtheus. It houses the famed Porch of the Caryatids (the columns shaped as maidens). In myth, the spot beneath the Erechtheion was thought sacred, and legends say serpents (guardians of the earth) dwelt beneath. You can imagine, in the ancient mind, that each rock was alive with whispered story.
Ancient Agora: Descending through the city, we visited the Ancient Agora (the “marketplace and public square” of ancient Athens). It was once the civic, commercial, and intellectual hub — philosophers like Socrates debated here, merchants sold goods, Athenians gathered. Standing amid the ruins of stoa walls and temples, I tried to picture the bustle, the voices rising, the vibrant life that once pulsed through here.
Temple of Olympian Zeus: The colossal Corinthian columns that remain point to how grand this temple once was. Dedicated to Zeus, it was started in the 6th century BCE but only completed centuries later under Roman rule. The scale makes you feel humble — the gods demanded monumental gestures.
Changing of the Guard — Outside the Presidential Mansion
One of the day’s most memorable moments was watching the Evzones perform the changing of the guard — but not at Parliament like most visitors see. Our guide took us to the Presidential Mansion (just a few minutes’ drive away), where the same guards perform a quieter, more intimate ceremony with far fewer tourists.
And here’s a tip: do not cross the white line. Seriously. There is a very serious-looking officer standing watch whose job seems to be “White Line Enforcement Manager.” Step over, and he will come get you — and not in a gentle “tourist wrangler” way. We remained respectfully on the opposite side of the street far from the line and just giggled watching a few distracted visitors get the look and scurry back.
The ceremony itself was mesmerizing: the Evzones’ stiff, stylized march, the high kicks, the deliberate steps — each movement symbolic, echoing Greece’s history and independence. Their shoes make a loud, metallic stomp with every step, like horse hooves on marble. It felt solemn, ancient, and oddly theatrical, like watching a slow-motion ballet of honor.
Lunch at Kalyvas Family Grill — Simple, Fresh & Gracious
After browsing, we were escorted to Kalyvas Family Grill, a warm, family-run spot tucked in a quieter part of the city. (Our guide had messaged ahead via WhatsApp to confirm availability.)
We shared a Greek salad unlike any I’ve had before — just tomato slices, cucumber, onion, olives, and glorious olive oil, no cheese (perfect for me). The flavors were clean, bright, and rooted in quality ingredients. Then a chicken gyro arrived, with tender meat, warm pita, a few fries tucked inside (yes!), and a side of crisp, lightly seasoned fries on the plate.
Before we left, the owner insisted — insisted — that we try their baklava. Rich, syrupy, layered with filo and nuts; each bite both sweet and delicate. It felt like an offering.
Saturday Afternoon at Monastiraki Flea Market
By early afternoon, we headed to Monastiraki Flea Market, one of Athens’ liveliest quarters. The timing was perfect — the market was in full swing but not yet the wall-to-wall crush of a Sunday crowd.
Stalls spilled out along Adrianou and Pandrossou streets, stacked with leather sandals, vintage postcards, icons painted in gold leaf, handmade jewelry, old books, quirky knick-knacks, and colorful souvenirs. The air smelled of grilled souvlaki and strong coffee. Vendors called out greetings, music drifted from somewhere, and scooters buzzed past.
We wandered for over an hour, weaving through the controlled chaos, peeking into side alleys where the best treasures always seem to be hiding. The afternoon light made everything glow — copper trinkets, beaded bracelets, polished wood — and it felt like the city itself was alive and pulsing around us.
Anniversary Dinner at Spondi in Pangrati
That night, we celebrated our wedding anniversary at Spondi, located in the Pangrati neighborhood of Athens. Pangrati is just east of central Athens, with quiet residential streets and a relaxed neighborhood feel.
We had made reservations well in advance (highly recommend!). The tasting menu was elegant and inventive, the presentation impeccable. A Night at Spondi: Discovering Greece Through a Michelin-Starred Lens
Athens is known for its deep culinary history, but dining at Spondi feels like stepping into a different chapter — one where Greek ingredients and global techniques meet in a Michelin-starred setting. I experienced their Discovery Menu along with the sommelier’s pairing, and what unfolded was an evening of creativity, precision, and a genuine sense of place.
Smoked Eel, Edamame, Fermented Pepper
A smoky and slightly briny opener, brightened by the freshness of edamame and a subtle kick from the fermented pepper. It was the perfect small bite to wake up the palate and set the stage.
Amberjack Umami
This dish delivered on its name — clean and delicate yet packed with savory depth. The focus was entirely on the quality of the fish, which shone through beautifully.
Wagyu, Meringue, Lovage, Mustard
One of my absolute favorites of the night. The Wagyu was meltingly tender, and the combination with airy meringue was unexpected but brilliant. The lovage brought a fresh, herbal note, while the mustard added just the right touch of heat to tie everything together.
Homemade Breads, Butter & Olive Oil
Bread service at Spondi is an experience in itself. The olive oil wasn’t just poured — it was shaped into a delicate flower, almost sculptural, and held its form thanks to its rich texture. Paired with warm bread and creamy butter, this felt indulgent in the best way.
Foie Gras Parfait – Fig, Fig Leaf, Kampot Pepper
Smooth, decadent foie gras balanced by the natural sweetness of fig and just enough Kampot pepper for a floral, spicy lift. This dish walked the line between savory and sweet beautifully.
Blue Lobster – Purple Eggplant, Peanut, Kaffir Lime, Satay
Another favorite of the evening. The lobster was perfectly cooked, succulent and sweet, with the accompaniments providing a clever nod to Southeast Asian flavors — bright kaffir lime, nutty satay, and creamy eggplant. It was vibrant and layered but still allowed the lobster to take center stage.
Cod – PequiIlo Pepper, Basil, Black Garlic, Cretan Cucumber
A beautifully balanced seafood course. The cod was flaky and delicate, complemented by the sweetness of pequillo pepper, the depth of black garlic, and the fresh, cooling bite of Cretan cucumber.
Pigeon – Hispi Cabbage, Arabica, Cherry, Guanciale
This was the one dish I struggled with — not because of how it was prepared (it was clearly executed with precision), but because I couldn’t shake my mental image of pigeons pecking at crumbs on city streets. I genuinely don’t know if I disliked the flavor or if that association turned my stomach. Either way, it was my least favorite of the evening, though I can appreciate why others might love its gamey richness and clever use of Arabica coffee and cherry.
Cheese from the Trolley (+20€)
A chance to curate your own cheese course from an impressive trolley selection. If you have room, it’s a nice way to slow the meal down and extend the experience.
Piña Colada – Pineapple, Coconut, Malibu
A playful pre-dessert that refreshed the palate and brought a light, tropical sweetness to transition into the final courses.
Yuzu – Peppermint, Green Shiso, Pistachio
A strikingly bright and herbal dessert. The yuzu and shiso brought a refreshing green note, while pistachio added both flavor and crunch.
Raspberry – Coffee, Cocoa, Black Garlic
A bold and thought-provoking finale. The combination of sweet raspberry, bitter cocoa, and the umami depth of black garlic made this dessert both challenging and rewarding — a dish that invites you to think as much as taste.
Wine Pairing: A Tour of Greece in a Glass
The sommelier’s pairing was one of the highlights of the evening, guiding me through the diversity of Greek wine. Each pour felt intentional: crisp, mineral-driven whites that paired beautifully with the seafood courses; more structured, elegant reds that complemented richer plates like the Wagyu and pigeon; and a nuanced dessert wine that echoed the raspberry and cocoa notes of the final course. The pairing elevated the meal and deepened the sense of discovery.
Final Thoughts
Spondi’s Discovery Menu was a journey — one that balanced precision with playfulness, and local flavors with global inspiration. While the pigeon wasn’t for me, the Wagyu and Blue Lobster were among the best dishes I’ve had anywhere. The attention to detail, from the sculpted olive oil to the thoughtful wine pairings, made this more than a dinner — it was a complete sensory experience.
If you’re in Athens and looking to see what Greek fine dining can be at its most refined, Spondi is an essential stop.
Day 2: Slow Strolls, Quiet Streets & Greece’s Famous Cats
After the whirlwind of our private tour, we spent the next morning wandering the neighborhood around our hotel. This part of Plaka was quieter than Monastiraki — narrow cobblestone streets lined with neoclassical houses, bougainvillea climbing the walls, and little shops opening slowly for the day.
Here, the pace felt different. Shops selling jewelry, sandals, and artisan crafts were open but not as hectic as Monastiraki’s stalls. We peeked into boutiques at our leisure, stopped for coffee without waiting in line, and felt like we were seeing a softer, more local side of Athens.
And then there were the cats.
If you’ve ever been to Greece, you know what I mean — cats are everywhere. At first, my heart ached a little. I’m an animal lover, and seeing so many cats lounging on steps, perched on balconies, weaving between café tables made me wonder if they were strays. Did anyone care for them?
It didn’t take long to realize that these cats do have homes — they just happen to live in the entire city. People leave bowls of food and water in doorways, restaurant owners toss scraps their way, and locals (and tourists) stop to give them a scratch behind the ears. These are truly “everybody’s cats,” roaming freely, cared for collectively.
One little ginger cat followed us for half a block, tail held high like he was guiding us to our next stop. Another sat regally on the steps of a church, as if presiding over morning prayers. A trio of kittens wrestled in the shade outside a shop, watched indulgently by the shopkeeper.
Seeing this made me fall in love with Athens a little more. The cats felt like part of the neighborhood’s soul — quiet companions keeping watch over the city.
Tips & Takeaways for Fellow Travelers
* Book ahead, especially for Spondi and other popular spots — reservations are essential.
* WhatsApp is gold — our tour guide and some restaurants used it to confirm times and details.
* For the Changing of the Guard, try the Presidential Mansion for a quieter experience — but stay behind that white line unless you want an unsmiling guard headed your way.
* Plan extra time in Monastiraki for browsing and bargaining — Saturday afternoons are lively but less overwhelming than Sunday mornings.
* Bring comfortable shoes, patience, and curiosity — Athens rewards those who wander slowly.
Click, Wander & Savor 