The Dalmatian Islands – A 5-Island Day from Split
There are good travel days, and then there are unreal ones – the kind that start with a sunrise over the Adriatic and end with salt in your hair, sea spray on your skin, and a story you’ll tell forever.
We booked our 5-Island Speedboat Tour through Viator with Blue Cave Tours, a fantastic local outfit that promised hidden coves, glimmering caves, and maybe even a dolphin or two. We met our crew early on the Riva, next to the lion fountain, where locals were already sipping espresso like it was a competitive sport. The sea was flat as glass — that perfect, calm-before-the-adventure kind of morning.
“Ready for the best day of your trip?” our skipper grinned. He wasn’t wrong.
Biševo Island – The Blue Cave
Our first stop was the Blue Cave on Biševo Island, one of those places that truly lives up to the hype. To enter, we switched into tiny boats, ducked our heads low, and glided under a narrow stone arch that barely cleared the top of our skipper’s cap.
“Stay down!” he laughed, as we slipped into darkness – and then suddenly, light.
“Okay, look up.”
I opened my eyes and audibly gasped. The entire cave shimmered in impossible shades of blue – neon, liquid, luminous – like the Adriatic had swallowed a star. Light filtered through an underwater opening, bouncing off the limestone floor until it wrapped the cave in sapphire fire. Even the oars glowed as they cut through the water.
It was silent except for a few soft “wow”s – and one whisper from behind me: “You can’t make this up.”
No photo, no filter, no travel brochure can prepare you for that kind of beauty.
Komiža, Vis Island – Fishermen, Cats & Coffee
From there, we cruised to Komiža on Vis Island, a fishing village that feels like time took a vacation and never came back. The pastel houses leaned over the harbor, fishing boats bobbed gently, and cats supervised the whole operation from sun-warmed stone steps.
We ordered iced coffees and watched the slow-motion ballet of daily life: fishermen fixing nets, kids chasing each other down the quay, and a very determined cat attempting to steal someone’s tuna sandwich. (It succeeded.)
If you ever need a masterclass in “living in the moment,” come to Komiža.
Stiniva Cove – The Hidden Amphitheater
Next stop: Stiniva Cove, the Adriatic’s most dramatic secret. Carved between limestone cliffs, it opens like a curtain to reveal a tiny pocket of paradise – pebbles, emerald water, and light bouncing like gold dust on the walls.
We anchored outside and swam through the narrow entrance, the water cool and glassy. Inside, everything fell quiet. Just us, the sea, and that feeling you get when you realize the Earth still has places this pure.
Island – Donkey, Drinks & the Great Sandwich Heist
Then came Budikovac Island, population: one bar, one donkey, and a handful of travelers who looked far too relaxed to ever leave.
The lagoon glowed turquoise – so clear you could count the shells on the bottom. We snorkeled, floated, and stretched out on warm rocks, the kind of lazy bliss that requires no agenda beyond “don’t spill your drink.”
And then he appeared – the donkey.
Equal parts mascot and mayor, he trotted around like he owned the place, tail flicking, eyes half-lidded in contentment. If Eeyore and a beach bum had a baby, this was him. At first he nuzzled for attention – adorable – until someone’s sandwich disappeared, napkin and all. He looked back, utterly unbothered, chewing like a man who’d made no mistakes.
We named him Eeyore the Sandwich Thief, and he quickly became the highlight of the island. Between sips from the beach bar and dodging our new four-legged friend, it was one of those moments that felt like vacation perfection: part paradise, part chaos.
Hvar Island – History on a Hill (and the Hernia Foreshadowing, Part II)
Our final stop was Hvar Town, the island jewel of the Dalmatian Coast. White stone, lavender stalls, sparkling yachts, and that Mediterranean glow that makes you want to order a spritz and stay forever.
But before we could even think about cocktails, I spotted the Fortica Fortress perched high above town and said the fateful words: “We have to climb it!”
My husband looked at me, then at the fortress. “Of course we do,” he sighed. Off we went – winding up the cobbled path, passing the tiny Chapel of Our Lady of the Fortica, surrounded by Marian prayer stones balanced carefully by travelers. Halfway up, I handed him my backpack again (what are soulmates for, if not shared suffering?).
The view from the top was worth every step – the Pakleni Islands stretched out like emeralds on blue velvet. We stood there sweaty, smiling, and blissfully unaware that those “minor stomach pains” would soon earn him a three-hernia diagnosis.
As we made our way back down, a couple from our boat passed us, each rolling a suitcase. They were staying overnight in Hvar. Smart. We, on the other hand, had to head back to Split and move on to Dubrovnik. Note to self: next time, pack lighter and stay longer – preferably with Eeyore.
The Ride Home and the Twist Yet to Come
The ride back to Split was pure magic – the sea calm, the sky streaked in peach and lavender. The boat bounced lightly over the waves as everyone leaned back in happy exhaustion, sun-kissed and smiling.
We didn’t talk much – just the sound of the engine, the wind, and the soft splash of the Adriatic saying goodnight.
Little did we know those same stomach pains would make encore appearances in Dubrovnik, and again in Montenegro – until a doctor finally confirmed that my husband had been gamely scaling Europe with three hernias. Honestly, it explained a lot.
Reflections on a Perfect Day
Our 5-Island adventure was everything I love about travel – a mix of awe, laughter, and “did that really just happen?” We swam in glowing caves, met a sandwich-stealing donkey, and climbed one fortress too many.
If you visit Split, don’t skip the sea. The Dalmatian islands aren’t just destinations – they’re moods. They shimmer, they surprise you, and they leave you smiling long after you’re gone.
And if you see Eeyore the Sandwich Thief, give him a wave, but keep your eyes on your sandwich at all times!
Click, Wander & Savor 